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The Nassau Guardian Journalism Fellowship

In da kitchen

So Which One Is It?

By Chef Anthony B. Carey

"Yes, I would like to have the lobster salad. Or should that be crawfish salad?"

Confused about the difference! Don't feel alone, many others do as well. The names Lobster, Crawfish and Crayfish are used interchangeably, although incorrectly, to describe a particular group of sea creatures known as Decapods – meaning "ten legged."

With all belonging to the Crustacea family to which prawns, shrimps and crabs are, they have five pairs of legs on the main part of the body, plus five pairs of swimmerets on the abdomen or tail.

Here in The Bahamas, our water are blessed by the Rock or Spiny Lobster, which we call Crawfish and others confusingly call Sea Crayfish. Although they superficially resemble what are known as "true lobsters" in terms of overall shape, and having a hard carapace and exoskeleton, the two groups are quite unrelated. Spiny lobsters can be easily distinguished from true lobsters by their very long, thick, spiny antennae, and by their complete lack of claws (chelae). Like true lobsters, however, spiny lobsters are good to eat and are an economically significant food source and account for our biggest food export. Spiny lobsters are found in almost all warm seas, including the Caribbean and the Mediterranean, but are particularly common around Australia and South Africa.

The species referred to as "true lobsters" have a pair of enormous edible flat claws. There are two very similar species: the European Lobster, found on the Atlantic coast of Europe, Scandinavia and in the Mediterranean, and the American Lobster, found on the Atlantic coast of North America. The claws are the first of the five pairs of legs; the second and third pairs end in small pincers.

Crayfish are freshwater crustaceans that inhabit rivers, lakes or dams. They are quite popular in Southern U.S. States such as Louisiana, where they are referred to as crawfish, crawdads, mudbugs, yabbies, or spoondogs. They resemble small lobsters, to which they are closely related. They are found in bodies of fresh water that do not freeze to the bottom, which are not polluted, and which have shelter against predators. Crayfish are usually about three inches long. Freshwater crayfish have a pair of large claws, two pairs of legs ending in pincers, and two other pairs of simple walking legs.

Considered a delicacy in most part of the world, it is interesting to note that the Lobster species were once considered to be the mark of poverty. Fishermen caught them occasionally and they were only consumed by the poorer sections of the population. This may be due in part to the fact that Lobsters are referred to as sea "cock-a-roaches," as in all honesty they are true scavengers of the sea. Nevertheless, the high price paid today for a tail clearly shows that the tides indeed have changed.

Please forward all question and comments to Chef Anthony B. Carey:

baha300@hotmail.com

LOBSTER BISQUE

The bisque is very rich, so a small serving (about two-thirds cup per person) is plenty. Try this at your next diner party. Bake in individual crocks, with puff pastry on top until golden brown. This makes for a wonderful presentation

2 1-pound live lobsters

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, sliced

1 large celery stalk, sliced

1 small carrot, sliced

1 garlic head, cut in half crosswise

1 tomato, sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

8 whole black peppercorns

1/2 cup brandy

1/2 cup dry Sherry

4 cups fish stock or bottled clam juice

1/4 cup tomato paste

1/2 cup whipping cream

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon water

Bring large pot of water to boil. Add lobsters head first and boil until cooked through, about eight minutes. Using tongs, transfer lobsters to large bowl. Reserve two cups cooking liquid. Cool lobsters.

Working over large bowl to catch juices, cut off lobster tails and claws. Crack tail and claw shells and remove lobster meat. Coarsely chop lobster meat; cover and chill. Coarsely chop lobster shells and bodies; transfer to medium bowl. Reserve juices from lobster in large bowl.

Heat olive oil in heavy large pot over high heat. Add lobster shells and bodies and sauté until shells begin to brown, about eight minutes. Add onion and next eight ingredients. Mix in brandy and Sherry. Boil until almost all liquid has evaporated, about four minutes. Add fish stock, reserved two cups lobster cooking liquid and lobster juices. Simmer one hour.

Strain soup through sieve set over large saucepan, pressing firmly on solids. Whisk tomato paste into soup. Simmer until soup is reduced to three cups, about 15 minutes. (Can be prepared one day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Add cream to soup and simmer 5 minutes. Dissolve cornstarch in one tablespoon water. Add to soup and boil until slightly thickened, about two minutes. Mix lobster meat into soup and stir to heat through. Ladle soup into bowls.




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