By Chef Michael Pataran, For The Guardian

I sometimes think back and try to figure out when I first became enamored and enthralled by the incredibly intense, rich, plush and jammy goodness of the "oh so" misunderstood Zinfandel grape — the big boy —the heavy hitter of the grape world with its up to 19 percent alcohol monster-zin potential.

When I start to think (and remember), I also recall images of that nasty, thin juice (AKA wimp wine) that was so popular throughout the 80s. Not a patio could you visit without being surrounded by a sea of blush carafes and 30-something's discussing last nights episode of Dallas or Knot's Landing! Thank goodness those years are long gone. But yet the mighty Zin grape has managed to battle through it's bad rap and rough adolescent times. It's the story of a young clumsy, awkward teenager striving to build its muscle and find its niche.

The Zinfandel grape ("ZIN" to those who adore her) is a native red wine grape (which many are not aware) of California ... a true Native American varietal. It is the largest planted red grape varietal in California with Cabernet not far behind. It's bloodlines can be traced back to Primitivo (from Italy) and (Plavac Mali) in Croatia.

There was a big war going on between the Italians and the Slavs as to where the Zin bloodlines originated from, with the Italians having the upper hand. You see The Primitivo and Plavac Mali grapes are distant relatives, without the exact DNA structure as the mighty Zin.

It wasn't until 2001 when Carole Meredith (a scientist from the University of California at Davis) was brought to Croatia and traced the original DNA strands of the Zin back to a Croatian varietal from the Dalmatian coast called "Crljenak Ka-telanski". The war was now over by proof of science. Zinfandel now had a country to call home.

Today, we are lucky to have so many amazing examples of how great this wine can be. We've even had an overhaul of the "pink stuff". With the new wave and popularity of Spanish Rioja roses, the Zinfandel juice is starting to produce some serious rose offerings.

Zinfandel thrives in the California sun. Although it grows well, it can be very tricky to say the least. Zinfandel (above all other varietals) has the annoyance of un-ripening evenly within a single cluster of grapes. Where some grapes are perfectly ripe and beaming with high brix (sugar content), others are still green and sour as wine gums, making for a very painstaking and tricky harvest.

Zin can also produce a number of different styles of wine ranging from easy to quaff "backyard" sippers all the way up to intense, dark and robust giants and when aged, light, soft and complex like a fine pinot.

I once tasted a wine blind with a group of friends at Christmas back in 2005. As we looked up and pondered for a few minutes; the vocal guesses started and continued around the table. Now these were wine savvy people in the industry — not Saturday night drinkers to say the least. Finally, with nervous tones the speculation came forth. "98 Pinot Noir from Burgundy." "Nope"! "94 Rhone from J. Vidal". "Nope"! "Grenache"? ... Now we were reaching. Without hesitation J.S. lifted the brown paper bag and to all of our surprise there stood a 1995 bottle of Sky Zinfandel. Wow! At that precise moment in time, we all became aware of what a Zin could truly be ... it changed us forever as wine drinkers. Not to say that all Zins are capable of such a beautiful metamorphosis, but when they are, look out. At that age they are soft and luscious with aromas of coffee, cedar, tobacco, licorice, and mushroom, something not present in a "porch sipper". That's what makes her so great. She has a style for everyone. The younger ones from warmer areas around Napa that are not age-worthy are full of ripe raspberries, plum jam and candy floss.

As you head to cooler areas like Sonoma and Paso Robles they start to take on flavors of pepper, anise and blackberry. These samples are meant to be consumed young and are not totally food worthy.

Then there are the "big bad boys" — the Sean Penn's if you will. These offer big, robust flavors of black fig, dense pomegranate, coffee, leather, smoke and dark Asian spice. These are the "food wines". Time to break out those intense reductions and hearty game meats. These Zins demand serious, intense food preparation to shine and show their true metal.

Another great thing is that Zins can be enjoyed slightly chilled (at around 50°F) — great for a hot and sunny day at the beach or pool.

On that subject, when we're talking BBQ, nothing beats an intense jammy Zin with a rack of BBQ Ribs with Jack Daniel's BBQ Sauce or a fiery roast chicken with a cumin-cilantro, chili rub. In the company of these tasty characters, Zin is a star. She shines in all her glory and will make you a fan for life!

Other great anomalies have also occurred due to the rising popularity of the mighty Zin and her loyal fans everywhere. In 1991, Croatian-born Mila Grgich, the Zinfandel producer phenom, helped Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) with the objective of promoting this beautiful grape the world over and supporting the scientific research that helped Zin find a home.

ZAP tastings and cruises are now held every year in order to bring the grape to light. On a closing note it was very sweet to see that in 2006 Wine Spectator released their Top 100 wines in the world list and perched at number three on that list was ... you guessed it ... a sweet girl named Zin. It was the 2003 Rosenblum Zinfandel Rockpile with a score of 94 points!

WINES OF THE WEEK

2005 GRGICH HILLS, Napa Valley Zinfandel, Napa

($51 BRISTOL CELLARS)

n From a fellow Croat, this is a Zin drinkers Zin! Heavy structure, balance and poise! Blackberry, cassis, leather, mint and big spice make it more like a Cab in nature! Full of ripe raspberry, ripe chewy tannins, tobacco, roasted pepper and brisk acidity. Deep, long and lingering finish ... a strapping Zin to say the least! Not for wimps! 92 points

n Great accompaniment with peppercorn crusted BBQ New York steak with red pepper chili mole and coriander roasted garlic mash.

2005 RAVENSWOOD, Lodi Zinfandel, Lodi, California

($19 BRISTOL CELLARS)

n Made with grapes from central Lodi where it's much hotter than Napa. This is a great example of a super ripe Cali Zin with big jam! Massive blackberry and raspberry flavors with nice chocolate, vanilla, oak and spice undertones. Medium tannins, body and nice oaky finish. Great into intermediate level Zin.

87 points

n Great accompaniment to a char-broiled flank steak with caramelized onions, baked beans and charred pepper corn relish.